Pavers, stamped concrete, composite, and wood each get a different pressure and a different chemical. Trex and other composites in particular will haze permanently if someone hits them with a straight wand.
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Published guidance for interlocking pavement is specific about technique: a wide spray at a low angle of attack keeps the sand in the joints. Point a narrow tip straight down at a paver joint and the sand leaves.
If the joints do need new polymeric sand, the old sand has to come out to the full depth of the joint first. Sand poured on top of the old stuff does not bond to the paver sides and leaves voids. That is a separate job from washing, and we quote it that way.
Travertine, limestone and marble are calcium carbonate, so an acidic cleaner will dull and etch them. Those get a neutral cleaner. Poured concrete, brick pavers and flagstone each take a different setup, which is why we look before we quote.
The concrete masonry association sets that as the point where you top it up immediately, and it is checkable with a ruler. Sand is what locks the field together. Once the joints run low the units start to rock and the edges chip against each other.
Pavement ants nest under the slab and push excavated material up through the joints. Those little craters are your joint sand coming out grain by grain. Extension entomologists describe them exactly that way, and they mark where the joint is emptying.
On a permeable patio that is the published threshold for a clogged surface, along with ponding across a fifth of the field. Sediment has filled the open joints and the system has stopped infiltrating. Sweeping does not fix it, vacuum extraction does.
Lippage over an eighth of an inch should be corrected before winter, because a raised edge catches ice, catches feet and gets levered further every freeze. Check the field in spring during or right after a rain, which is the only time ponding shows.
On an open jointed patio, germination is a sediment reading rather than a weed problem. Seeds need something to root in, and the only soil up there is what has washed in and packed down. Killing the tops leaves the reason they grew untouched.
Travertine, limestone and marble are calcium carbonate, and the stone industry classes them as acid sensitive for that reason. An acidic cleaner that is fine on concrete leaves a dull etched patch on them that no amount of rinsing brings back.
Concrete pavers, siliceous stone like bluestone and flagstone, and calcareous stone like travertine and limestone. The acid that is legitimate on a brick border will burn and discolor the travertine sitting three inches away from it.
The hardscapes association calls for a wide spray at a low angle of attack, because that is what keeps joint sand in the joint. For limestone the stone institute sets a distance rule instead of a pressure rule: never closer than one foot.
The Dimension Stone Design Manual gives one number and repeats it across chapters: a neutral detergent at pH 7 is the recommended cleaning agent. Etching from an acid is permanent, and a sealer reduces that exposure without removing it.
Washing takes sand out and the interlock depends on it. Polymeric sand goes in dry, gets vibrated down, then swept and blown fully off the paver faces before any water touches it, because residue left on the face cures there as haze.
The hardscapes spec calls for at least 24 hours with no surface dampness before sealer goes down and another 24 before traffic. Silane and siloxane are also the wrong chemistry for limestone, marble and travertine, so the substrate decides.
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Only at low pressure, and most composite manufacturers cap it around 1,500 psi with a fan tip held well back. Go past that and the cap layer hazes or streaks, and unlike wood it cannot be sanded out. We clean composite with a detergent and a low pressure rinse, which pulls the black mildew spotting out of the grain texture without touching the finish.
A deck is $275 on its own under 200 square feet and $509 over 400, or $199 to $389 when it is added to a house wash. Paver patios sit at the higher end because the joints need attention and the sand usually needs a light re-sweep afterward. Stamped and sealed concrete is priced carefully, since old failing sealer has to be identified before anything gets sprayed on it.
We clean the joints as part of the wash, and we will tell you honestly whether the polymeric sand needs replacing. Washing a paver patio always pulls some joint sand, that is unavoidable. On patios where the sand was already failing we recommend a re-sand afterward, which stabilizes the pavers and slows weed growth back down. The same joint work applies around water on a pool deck, and the flat runs leading up to it fall under driveway and concrete cleaning.
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Decks, patios, pool surrounds and fence lines should be one visit, not four separate ones. Here is the rest of what we do.
Serving Raleigh, Cary, Wake Forest, Apex, Garner, Knightdale, Clayton, Zebulon, Wendell, Rolesville, Holly Springs and Fuquay-Varina. Call or text 919-526-0633, or get an instant price in about 60 seconds.
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